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T1 amp and heat

T1 amp and heat

Wow ouch hot hot hot. The LED heatsink definitely running too hot.

Soaks up tons of heat, yes yay!, but seems to need a way to get rid of it. Maybe I'm just orienting it incorrectly or something. Add something though and it cools right down. I tossed a 6 by 10 inch (15.2 x 25.3 cm) steel not even aluminum (less cool) thin case cover on top. No thermal grease or bolting just tossed on and it cools way way down to slightly warm. Doesn't heat up the steel panel much too.

So it is fantastic supercool for attaching to a metal case. Or other stuff. Cheap, gives a horizontal mount-to surface, and easy to size with a hacksaw. But it does need something extra, like the case cover, it's too hot used alone.

A separate panel might be a good idea so that the board doesn't get broken / yanked out accidentally when opening up the case. Especially if the amp is given away or sold or etc.



I'm so disappointed, just looks so cool, way better than my picture shows.
Not as cool as the black boards, but pretty decent.
Nice hot little mill under the hood look, but... anyway hate to part with it.
hey guys pardon / sorry still slightly cooler obsessed
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Here's with LED heatsink added, cheap and commonly available online.

Used the stock heatsink footprint for sizing, had to cut 2 fins depth up in front, and 3 fins depth in back, to clear the front cap and back coils. Didn't take long with a hacksaw. This thing gets very hot, but is great for raising it above everything, like to attach to outer metal case for more cooling, or added coolers if so obsessed.
Gives it a cool dirtbike cylinder look, but granted probably won't see it inside the case in most builds.
Wow, bending the heatpipe up off away from the fins, allowing air through, really cools it down.
Much cooler than down near the fins, tried it both ways a few times, big difference.

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The second back heatpipe doesn't get very warm but it's useful if the amp gets hotter. Like if it's run louder for a long time, or with harder to drive speakers. I can remove it and use just the one front pipe, it stays near to slightly warm. But it has to remain bent up away from the fins, like in the picture. Otherwise it's not much cooler than just the stock heatsink alone.


Found a few articles, many say there's no huge gain using pins or pressfins instead of fins. But it's like cable choices, people like different types. Calculating heatsink efficiency, it just looks easier to find manufacturers that list specs and try more efficient ones. Someone who's worked on it might know easier ways to test unknown heatsinks at home. A stove, thermometer, and stop watch ?

Anyhow it's like they say, these chips do run hot. Just nice to see the amp near cold, less stressed. I keep swapping back to stock cooling, just out of curiosity, it's fine either way.

If anyone has any good cooling mods would appreciate any pictures, info, and advice.
HifimeDIY wrote back, said sorry they didn't have any heatsink specs. Also suggested googling, made sense.

They did mention how these chips run quite warm - which I was aware of, I have a sort of similar amp (TK2050) and have read often how these types run hot. Hope they understood I just got sidetracked carried away, curious if others had modded theirs with these type amps.

When we can convert the heat to recharge portable stuff, then we'll have something to rant and strut smiling about.
Looks nice & interesting. Guess they got to wondering about heat too.

Read recently that pressfins ? (pins & pin-like fins) work better than fins - more of them and spaced; not sure if it's true.
New ones have more fins, thicker base, looks like.

Gold/black sounds really decent - ' course, easy for me to say from the looking not the building side of things - not to knock your ideas, more that they and you'd know more and I'd know less :) Sounds good.
Seems a new heatsink design was incorporated into the latest T1 variant.

http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=110



I do wish they would opt for gold plating and black solder mask. Should not add mote then a $ or two. And look really nice.



Now I have even more reason to buy one.
My various speaker sets aren't hard to drive, mostly dome and cone sets, 87 to 90 dB sensitivity, all 8 ohm. Not super sensitive, but no difficult or exotic loads. Also have tall ribbons, but they're surprisingly easy to drive, 88 dB 7 ohm.

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Cooling, I gave the RAM-cooler heatpipes many more good workouts (clamped to the stock heatsink). Various positions, using one or two heatpipes.

One heatpipe was okay, two even cooler. Thermal grease helps. One's better than nothing, really takes the edge off, but felt a little hot. Two got near barely warm to the touch, but not enough.

If the amp is used beyond casual listening levels, or driving more difficult loads, quick adding heatpipes could help but won't keep it at barely warm. I'd add them if I had one or more, not bad, but would look for something cooler.



Again, love the amp stock / wouldn't change a thing (another not nagging, no complaints plug) just got to messing with easy add-on cooling.
Thanks for the info.
The coils do warm a little but nothing excessive; just as you'd described.

I wrote to Hifimediy, will see if they have any info or not on the C/W rating.

Also yes and amazingly I still have an unfried amp and power supply. Will definitely check with others before trying any unfamiliar procedures in the future. Newbie mistakes, ouch.
That is 4W.

Some of that would be dissipated into the coils.

It's not overly excessive so the amp seems fine.



Can Hifimediy give the C/W rating for the heatsink?



Good thing the SMPS seems to have short circuit protection.
Thanks, couldn't find instructions anywhere. (I probably did, across-incorrectly, not for very long, but still..)

I measured as you said, with no music input, it read 0.17 amps steady.
You put your DMM in series with the supply, positive from PSU goes into the DMM and then from DMM to the amp.

It should be a steady reading unless music is playing or something is wrong.



Did you put the DMM across positive and negative supply in current measuring mode?
PS:
Looking up how to measure that, not much luck so far, will keep searching.
Hi and sorry I was afraid of that - I'd gotten a zero reading when I posted, but I had done it incorrectly.
I just tried again and it looks like 4.3 amps. It varies from .01 or .03 on up to 4.3, but it looks like 4.3 amps is the highest reading.

Just to check, how would I measure for that ? Like I'd said am a total novice, sorry if that question seems overly obvious.
thanks
24VDC is the voltage. I want to know the current. Which will tell us if excessive amounts of power being drawn at idle or if it is normal.
Here's the T1 with a heatpipe added to the stock heatsink:
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...and here's a heatsink I want to try:
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I have a small bunch of heatsinks already, and the easiest thing would be to just toss a huge one on. But I don't want to stress or break the PC board, or add hangers or supports and possibly still break the PC board. The LED heatsink one is easy to tack other small heatsinks or heatpipes to with it's vertical top, and would only require minor cutting to size with a hacksaw.

Again I'm quite happy with the stock T1 and I like the stock heatsink, but mine's running hot and I'd like to get it barely warm to the touch. I'll know more about what to expect for heat with my speakers and such once I get an SMPS300 for it too.
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