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DDX320 v2.3 digital amp

DDX320 v2.3 digital amp

Hi,

I received today my amp DDX320 v2.3 and the power supply SMPS300R.

In the instructions available on the web site, its been said that the amp can on run on AC dual rail up to 26vAC and DC up to 36v

What is not clear for me is the SMPS300R come with positive and negative 28 volts. As i underterstood, i should only use the positive and GND connector. The negative should not be tied to the amplifier.

But if i use a AC toroidal transformer with 25 volts x2 rail, i should then tied the two live ac and the common to the amplifier.

Do i'm right? I prefer to ask before than after...

http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route...&product_id=64

Another technical question:

The manual said:

3.1 Inputs
3.1.1 Coaxial (CH-1, 2) and Optical(CH-3, 4) inputs
Up to 192kHz/24bit S/PDIF signal can be accepted.
3.1.2 External (CH-5~8)inputs
The board accepts another 4x inputs, by setting the SW-1 on. See Table2 for details. Inputs 5 and 6 are S/PDIF mode and
Inputs 7~8 are CMOS mode.

What is the pin out of the board if i want to use an external spdif input. Can you explain what is a cmos input and what can be this use for.

Thanks!


Jean Lafontaine
Hi,

Because it could be need by someone else, here are some link and answers that i received from tech support.


What is not clear for me is the SMPS300R come with positive and negative 28 volts. As i underterstood, i should only use the positive and GND connector. The negative should not be tied to the amplifier.


Anwer:
Hi, some of the smps300r comes with same PCB for single and dual voltage versions. On this version the positive and negative is connected together, so you can use either of the positive or negative AND the GND output.
If using dual AC, then connect AC GND AC.

ref: http://hifimediy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/SMPS300R.pdf manual


Question 2:
I still not have wired thing together and i read the technical information and look at the schematics. I still have questions about this:

The mains voltage must be supplied to the board on the 3 pin terminal block connector from the lower left side.
The signification of the pins is as follows:
Pin1:Protective Earth connection
Pin2:Neutral Mains connection
Pin3: Live Mains connection

For safe and reliable operation, the SMPS300R board must be earthed.

The problem...

There is no numbers on the terminal block and the shematics vs this afirmation is saying differents instructions. On schematic the pin1 is live mains, pin2 is neutral and pin3 is protective Earth.


The anwer is:

For SMPS300R the block closest to the corner is GND, the other two inputs are AC AC.


What is the pin out of the board if i want to use an external spdif input.


The answer is on the schematics:
http://hifimediy.com/wp-content/uploads/DDX320%20V2.1%20sch.pdf

Now thing are wired and powered up yesterday. I have tried it rapidly and i was unable to get sound out of the amplifier. I used the optical ch3 as input from a squeezebox classic (so outputing at 16bit-44.1khz from flac files). The control are working with the rotary switch. Have to investigate later in the week and i will report here.

Jean Lafontaine
Hi,



Because it could be need by someone else, here are some link and answers that i received from tech support.





What is not clear for me is the SMPS300R come with positive and negative 28 volts. As i underterstood, i should only use the positive and GND connector. The negative should not be tied to the amplifier.





Anwer:

Hi, some of the smps300r comes with same PCB for single and dual voltage versions. On this version the positive and negative is connected together, so you can use either of the positive or negative AND the GND output.

If using dual AC, then connect AC GND AC.



ref: http://hifimediy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/SMPS300R.pdf manual





Question 2:

I still not have wired thing together and i read the technical information and look at the schematics. I still have questions about this:



The mains voltage must be supplied to the board on the 3 pin terminal block connector from the lower left side.

The signification of the pins is as follows:

Pin1:Protective Earth connection

Pin2:Neutral Mains connection

Pin3: Live Mains connection



For safe and reliable operation, the SMPS300R board must be earthed.



The problem...



There is no numbers on the terminal block and the shematics vs this afirmation is saying differents instructions. On schematic the pin1 is live mains, pin2 is neutral and pin3 is protective Earth.





The anwer is:



For SMPS300R the block closest to the corner is GND, the other two inputs are AC AC.





What is the pin out of the board if i want to use an external spdif input.





The answer is on the schematics:

http://hifimediy.com/wp-content/uploads/DDX320%20V2.1%20sch.pdf



Now thing are wired and powered up yesterday. I have tried it rapidly and i was unable to get sound out of the amplifier. I used the optical ch3 as input from a squeezebox classic (so outputing at 16bit-44.1khz from flac files). The control are working with the rotary switch. Have to investigate later in the week and i will report here.



Jean
Hi,

Because it could be need by someone else, here are some link and answers that i received from tech support.


What is not clear for me is the SMPS300R come with positive and negative 28 volts. As i underterstood, i should only use the positive and GND connector. The negative should not be tied to the amplifier.


Anwer:
Hi, some of the smps300r comes with same PCB for single and dual voltage versions. On this version the positive and negative is connected together, so you can use either of the positive or negative AND the GND output.
If using dual AC, then connect AC GND AC.

ref: http://hifimediy.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/SMPS300R.pdf manual


Question 2:
I still not have wired thing together and i read the technical information and look at the schematics. I still have questions about this:

The mains voltage must be supplied to the board on the 3 pin terminal block connector from the lower left side.
The signification of the pins is as follows:
Pin1:Protective Earth connection
Pin2:Neutral Mains connection
Pin3: Live Mains connection

For safe and reliable operation, the SMPS300R board must be earthed.

The problem...

There is no numbers on the terminal block and the shematics vs this afirmation is saying differents instructions. On schematic the pin1 is live mains, pin2 is neutral and pin3 is protective Earth.


The anwer is:

For SMPS300R the block closest to the corner is GND, the other two inputs are AC AC.


What is the pin out of the board if i want to use an external spdif input.


The answer is on the schematics:
http://hifimediy.com/wp-content/uploads/DDX320%20V2.1%20sch.pdf

Now thing are wired and powered up yesterday. I have tried it rapidly and i was unable to get sound out of the amplifier. I used the optical ch3 as input from a squeezebox classic (so outputing at 16bit-44.1khz from flac files). The control are working with the rotary switch. Have to investigate later in the week and i will report here.

Jean

Now thing are wired and powered up yesterday. I have tried it rapidly and i was unable to get sound out of the amplifier. I used the optical ch3 as input from a squeezebox classic (so outputing at 16bit-44.1khz from flac files). The control are working with the rotary switch. Have to investigate later in the week and i will report here.

In reality those inputs are label wrongly in the manual. Optical inputs are 1/2 and coaxial are 3/4 before atemting to have something out of the amplifier, you should configure the remote control.

Tie the dc input of the amplifier with a wire that will be easy to unplug when the learning of the remote will be done. When the wire is unplug from the amplifier turn off the AC power before plugin back the wire on the amplifier and wait a moment for the power supply to fade out. I wired a led from the 12v 500ma connector (power supply) through a 1000 ohms resistor to indicate if power is on or off.

That was not clear to me what is the right way to program the remote. As soon as the display showing 000, then begin the sequence entry of the remote as the table in the manual. So the fist key to hit is POWER then the display will show 111 press MUTE etc... So the display is always showing the last number not the actual one youre recording.

I'm happy. The sound is great. Here a picture of a partial assembly i'm doing 75

I'm happy. The sound is great.

Final report:

The sound is good but i'm sure that the output power is not 75 watts RMS/8ohms maybe 75 watts peak. I did not made mesurement but if i compare with another 50 watts amplifier this one is lower in power maybe 35 watts RMS into 8 ohms. Should someone who knows how to test that and report.

Here a picture of the project (not perfect, but was fun) 76

There is a rasberrypi B+ running PiCorePlayer with optical spdif output module from hifiberry inside the box with the amplier and power supply.

Bye

Jean Lafontaine
Hi
about this "lack" of power, did you try the +10db feature ? And bypass the crossover (dip3 + ) ?
(of course you did :)
I just unboxed mine, but only tried it on old nintendo DS speakers (it works:), next step on real big speakers these days, when I got batteries for the remote to ensure proper setup.
Will report my experience then.
ps : nice piece of diy you have made laf, raspberry

EDIT :

Hi there
went on with my DDX320, swapping nds speakers with JMLab opal19ti, big sound ahead. My transports are a QLS QA350, and iBasso dx50. Fed with 3x bike batteries (37-38V). Seems the little extra voltage doesn't get the heater more than 65°C-70°C, after 2 hours of "good" working.
I kept the pcb in vertical position in order to improve heat extraction
Basses are tight, deep, and low. Voices are quite good, eventhough they maybe have not the"grain" and presence of very priced devices.
Sound is overall similar to my Yulong amp4780 (gainclone based) + sabre usb dac, with an extra power for the ddx.
I agree with Lafontaj about the not-so-75W, rather 2x35W, it's ok regarding to me, thanks to my efficient LS.
Didn't try SUB feature. Remote device is a pain to power, batteries type is not specified, and contacts inside are dumb designed, making one of the batterie short fuse. Works well when fixed, and so tiny :)
Cheap, compact and awesome sounded little thing, love it.
^^ edited ^^
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